Serenade at Ayazkala

yurt camp at Ayazkala in the kizlkum desert of Uzbekistan

Yurts at Ayazkala

Ayazkala, Uzbekistan 2012  Yurt camp in the Kizlkum desert,  near the 4th century B.C. ruins of Toprakala.

The yurts nestled on a hilltop. The Amu Darya River flowed blue on one horizon and the mud bastions of the ruins of Toprakala commanded the hill behind us. Empty, scrub filled desert and a cold wind completed the picture. We arrived at noon and had the rest of the day to fill. Torie and I took a walk to the Amu Darya practicing what Torie calls “desperation photography”. We shot desiccated plants, snake tracks and tried to shoot the Amu Darya, but couldn’t get a good viewpoint. After exhausting the possibilities, it was mid-day remember, we slogged back through the sand to camp.

Torie arranged for some local musicians to play and dance for us after dinner. By sunset, the wind seemed to be blowing from the Arctic, but we forced the lightly clad musicians and dancer to play in the golden light of the setting sun.

Uzbek man in costume plays the rubab

The Rubab Player

I don’t remember much about the music. I was trying to get some shots. The light faded as if it were on a dimmer switch as the sun plummeted from the sky. A weeping and gnashing of teeth could be heard from both Torie and me as we tried our best to get some sharp, composed, lit shots. 

Uzbek drummer serenades the setting sun

Drummer in Desert Light

See Penelope at www.uzbekjourneys.com to plan your visit to Uzbekistan or to learn more about the Toprakala ruins.

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