The Saddlers of Mardin

men work at making pack saddles

Father and Son

Mardin, Turkey 2009

 The small city of Mardin sits on a hill just above the border between Eastern Turkey and Syria, not far from the Tigris River. Civilization began here. Mardin was settled about 4000 years B.C.

Although Turkey has become very modern, Mardin retains some of the flavor of traditional aspects of Turkish or Kurdish life. Kurdish men, looking suprisingly stylish in baggy pants and jackets, accompany their wives to market. Donkeys loaded with produce are driven through the souk by hectoring boys. Simit, the delicious bagel-like bread is stacked layers high onto a tray and carried through narrow streets on the heads of young men.  

Away from all the hubbub are the workshops such as this saddler’s shop. It is filled with carpets to be sewn into pads to keep the pack-saddle from rubbing sores on the donkey’s back. I would imagine that one of these saddle pads would last a lifetime.  The men chat as they work and often have a glass of tea nearby and most likely a cigarette. Look at the skylight in the top of the picture. This is the real souk…almost a cave…I bet there are carpets and tools in there that no one has seen for generations. Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar used to look like this.

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