Essaouira, Morocco

man with push cart waits for work:two women in chador nearby

Essaouira Street Scene

Essaouira, Morocco 2000

In 1995, when I first visited, Essaouira was simply a fishing village. Ungainly looking wooden fishing boats filled the harbor; fishermen sat on the quay and mended nets. You could buy a plate full of freshly fried sardines from a make-shift restaurant at the water’s edge. Absolutely delicious!

Fishermen lived in the cluster of whitewashed houses in the medina and as we walked the narrow streets a young girl came out to invite us into her father’s house for tea. We accepted instantly and soon were sitting in their salon, facing the whole family eyeball to eyeball, sipping tea and smiling. We spoke no French nor Arabic. But I was able to recall the Italian word for fish which I’d learned from one of my cookbooks. I pronounced it as best I could. The man and woman nodded vigorously. We had communicated.

The color blue that you see in the photo is Essaouira’s trademark as is the white haik or chador worn by the women. Different color haiks are worn in different areas. The man earns his living with his pushcart.

 

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